Distance
Elevation
Observed Wildlifeto
The contrast between the beginning and end of this hike was remarkable. It started at possibly the most popular location in the park at Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center with short trails like the Hall of Mosses that give a glimpse into this unique wilderness. During the first mile of the hike I small children and people in flip flops took in the sights and it felt more like Disney World. I stood out from the crowd with my giant pack and hiking poles. By the time I reached the hike’s terminus I would be completely alone while looking at a gigantic mountain topping glacier. What a hike!
Day 1 - 10.7 miles - 6 hours
It took a few miles until the hike felt like a wilderness backpack. Even with so many fellow outdoor enthusiasts on the trail, I took in every giant tree, mat of moss, and field of ferns. Once the crowd thinned and I experienced some solitude I felt like I was in a fairy world. The enormous branches of hardwood trees meandered all over the place and epiphytes grew on what had become soil on top of them. It was an experience of plants on top of plants on top of plants and provided the most green scene of my life.
The trail also crossed small tributaries which made small cascades and the trail intermittently ran along the mystical Hoh River. The water is filled with silt produced by its glacier source and the result is a silky silver color. The only trouble with this is that I tried to avoid filling my water filter with the Hoh’s water since the silt could clog it.
Eventually I made it to my destination, Lewis Meadows. At first I was worried since it seemed completely full. However I continued exploring the extensive site and eventually found a site along the shore of the Hoh. Lewis Meadows is less formal than other sites and felt like a bit of a free for all. I was so happy to have my site for the next two nights and one where I could set up my hammock with a view of the flowing water.
Day 2 - 16.2 miles - 9 hours, 18 minutes
Possibly the best day of hiking in my life. I left my big pack behind and left my camp behind me. It didn’t take long for the trail to become steep and the forest gradually changed as I began to climb. The hardwood forest transitioned to Mountain Hemlock and the forest floor opened up. The mystique of the woods continued as I encountered raging tributaries and glimpses of mountains.
The trail steepened as I crossed, then departed from, the Hoh River. I reached Elk Lake, where I planned to rest, but there was no shore worth resting along. I better experienced this mountain lake after climbing a few hundred feet.
At one point a slide interrupted the trail where I was required to climb down a precarious ladder and then back up another to resume the trail.
This is where I met a trio of gentleman who I shared the trail with, off and on, for the rest of the day and into tomorrow. It was awesome to experience this epic trail with others while still able to keep my solitude.
By the time I passed Glacier Meadows, the terrain had really opened up. I was in and out of the trees and was graced with sublime views of the surrounding green and ice capped mountains. The visibility was slightly obscured by some wildfires in Canada, but it seemed to add to the dreamlike landscape.
This landscape continued for longer than I wanted in the moment as I anticipated the glacier. I passed through small snow fields, rock slides, and fields of wildflowers. Eventually I made it to a huge pile/ridge of rocks and debris. I willed myself to the top to come face to face with Blue Glacier on the footsteps of Mount Olympus. I was completely alone and ecstatic at having this all to myself. Luckily I had packed polarized sunglasses, otherwise the glacier was blinding in the bright sun. It’s amazing to see ice flow the way it does as part of a glacier, while seeming completely rigid.
The sight of the glacier verified the reasons why I hike. Nothing beats the feeling of seeing something so wild that so many people dream of and only see on a television screen. I had flown across the country, driven to the doorstep of the wilderness, then used only my legs to travel from the crowded visitor’s center to this natural monument. I experienced a high that is seldomly matched. With that said, the frontier always extends further; I watched a group of mountaineers in the distance ascending the glacier.
Eventually, two of the three gentlemen I met earlier joined me and to share this surreal moment. I was only able to tear myself away with the prospect of a spur trail which would bring me to a lower vista of the glacier. I descended almost a mile and over six hundred feet before encountering the spur which brought me back up another three hundred feet over a half mile. Though this spur required more energy than I wished to give, it was well worth it. I enjoyed another spectacular vista of the glacier. Mount Olympus was now hidden, but the flow of the glacier was even more apparent here. The bedrock along the edges of the glacier showed the deep scarring that only a glacier’s power can inflict. It was also a reminder that this glacier is receding, just as almosts all the world’s glaciers are. The fight against human induced climate change has many reasons and preserving the wilderness is one of the most important.
The initial descent was difficult, but became less strenuous the more ground I covered. I welcomed the return to the woods. At one point I stopped and set up shop on a log which overlooked the descending forest floor and the endless pillars of trees. Once the solid completely returned and the grade lessened I picked up my speed and composed my hiking classic, “Cruising Through the Forest.”
My cruise ended for the day back at Lewis Meadow and I was more than satisfied as I hung in my hammock on the shores of the Hoh River.
Day 3 - 10.7 miles - 4 hours, 50 minutes
This day felt like all fun and games after the rigorous ascent to Blue Glacier. The forest continued to emanate green and the flat, slightly downward grade allowed ideal cruising speeds. I made sure to stop frequently to fully take in the sights. Roughly halfway through my hike myself and a group of other hikers encountered a meandering black bear within a hundred feet of the trail. The bear could have cared less about our presence. I am slightly jealous of this bear that can call this sanctuary their home and watched as the bear drifted out of view.
As I approached the trailhead, the density of hikers increased. I welcomed the sight this time since it meant I was that much closer to my car which would transport me to a soft hotel bed and hot food which I would devour. The hike was purely magical and I am so happy to have become re-enchanted with it as I write this over three years later.
